Rosé Wines and Chef Tom Ashwell Smith

If you are looking for the perfect wine to match with a variety of summertime foods, classic dry Rosé may be the ideal choice. With plenty of citrus and typical fruit flavors of strawberry, cherry, and raspberry, these pink hued wines pair well with everything from salads to grilled meats and seafood.

Still very popular in Spain, France and Italy, U.S. sales of most dry Rosé style wines have been flat for years. Most people agree that this is due to the misperception that Rosés are typically sweet and fruity, bearing a slight resemblance to wine coolers. While it is true that most “blush” wines, such as White Zinfandel are indeed fruity and sweet (2.5% residual sugar is typical), the wine we are talking about is classic, sometimes bone-dry, Old World style Rosé.

Deriving its name from the French word meaning “pinkish,” dry Rosé is made traditionally from red wine grapes whose juice is left in contact with the grape skins for a very short period of time, usually no more than two to three days. The resulting wine can vary in color from pale orange to almost purple, depending on the grapes and wine making techniques. In most cases, the final product is usually more similar to white wine, with some added complexity from the flavor characteristics of the grapes, but more subtle and without noticeable tannins.

Dry Rosé is made in most wine producing areas, and may go by a variety of names, most of which are a reference to the wines pinkish color. In Spain, Rosado, as it is known, is most often made with Garnacha (Grenache) or Tempranillo grapes. In Italy, Rosato is often made or blended with Sangiovese, and more recently, Primitivo. The U.S. favors Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel for their dry Rosés. And in France, where it is reported that dry Rosé now exceeds white wine in sales volume, the traditional Rhone grapes including Syrah, Grenache and Carignan are very popular choices.

When selecting a Rosé for your next meal, we recommend you look to the French for some of the best examples. And remember, whatever you choose, Dry Rosés should be drunk young and are best served well chilled.

Château Grande Cassagne Costiéres De Nimes, France 2009

As we sat down with Chef Tom Smith to taste this week’s featured wine at T. Ashwell’s in Ellison Bay, a couple was finishing up their evening with some after dinner drinks at the bar. Being the wine pushers we are, we offered a taste of the Rosé to them. The couple politely refused stating that they didn’t care for sweet wines! Well, we may have enlightened two people on the style talked about here already.

“With a slightly smoky, cloudy rusted pinkish hue, this Rosé offers a light fresh strawberry nose. The palate, while light, presents a fair amount of acidity that will stand up to quite a lot of summer fare. With the strawberry character continuing throughout, and just a hint toward sweet that quickly dissipates to tartness and a bright crisp finish, I would recommend a number of dishes prepared here. For starters, this wine would be lovely with the Lobster raviolis and Diver Scallop prelude served with a coconut milk-lobster cream sauce. The Mixed Baby Greens salad with sliced beets, strips of carrots, fennel root, grated red cabbage, grape tomatoes and a mango-lime dressing would be a nice second course accompaniment. For entrees, I would suggest the Blackened Blue Marlin with a mild Cajun spice that is grilled with a roasted tomato, tasso, garlic and vegetable sauce to mach up well with the bright acidity this wine offers.”

~ Chef and Owner Tom Smith, T. Ashwell’s (Ellison Bay, WI)

Appearance: cloudy or smoky pinkish hue

Aroma: light fresh strawberries

Flavors: continues with the fresh strawberries with the slightest hint of sweetness that vanishes quickly

Finishing Notes: very crisp and clean that lends itself nicely to a variety of summer fare and even a dish with some spice

Availability: While the particular example we presented to Tom is available throughout Door County, we would recommend a wide array of any French, Spanish, American and other Rosés that many restaurants and retailers are proud to offer!

Information about “Where to Try” and “Where to Buy” these selected wines was provided by the local wine purveyors and vendors. If you happen to also serve or sell these wines, email [email protected].

WINE:30 is written by Karl Bradley and Jody Wuollett. Karl is the general manager and self-proclaimed “sous” sommelier for the Mission Grille. Former restaurant executive and Door County native Jody is happily under-employed as a Mission Grille food server and a member of the local band Northbound.