Salut from Senegal

My name is Martha Aurelius, a local from Ellison Bay and a born traveler. I am currently studying abroad in Dakar, Senegal through the University of Minnesota. I will be studying and participating in an internship for research in international development. These are my stories about a beautiful country that is under development.

Once I finally landed at the airport in Dakar, Senegal, I could immediately feel the heat rising in the late humid night, and my stomach began to twist and turn for what amazing adventures were in store for me. Even though it was 1 am, the city was alive and buzzing with honks of taxis, music, and the sounds of goats in the distance.

With only four hours of rest, I joined the rest of the students in my program on a crammed bus, and our baggage was thrown up onto the roof. This was the beginning of our journey to the different districts of Dakar, where our host families lived. After three hours of trying to ease my nerves and wishing other students “Bon Chance” or good luck with their families, it was finally my turn to step off the bus in Liberté III.

I met my host mother, Binta, right away with a warm smile and a strong handshake. She showed me around the house, which is an entire level of an apartment complex and has a beautiful terrace on the roof. Later that night I met my host father and my host siblings, Pascal and Raissia. Each day I learn something new about the family, draw Spiderman and the Ninja Turtles for Pascal, and gossip in French and Wolof with Raissia. My host mother is Muslim and my host father is Catholic, which makes a very curious Martha! I am always asking Binta where she prays, what are daily Muslim customs, and what I should do to respect their culture. My host father has taken me out dancing until 4 am at his local church, and I have met many of his childhood friends that stop by the house.

Binta is a great cook and is always making wonderful meals that consist of meaty, white fish, an onion sauce, and rice. Our dinner is served on one large platter and all of the family members “eat around the bowl,” either using a fork or just our right hand to eat. Outside of the house, Binta is known as one of the best bakers in our neighborhood. I came home from school one day to find her on the roof making huge quantities of orange glazed donuts. Let’s just say that I will be well fed here in Dakar! In the mornings, I have a piece of bread and mix together instant Nescafé coffee, with condensed milk, and sugar for my morning coffee. I’m still missing my Leroy’s fix that I have almost every day in the summer, but I’m slowly perfecting my instant morning coffee so it’s not too bitter, but also not too sweet.

Every moment is a new adventure for me, even if I am just walking to school with other American students. I always try to greet my neighbors in either French or my broken Wolof every morning. My route to school consists of passing the mosque, walking past the fruit stand on the corner, turning left at the colorfully painted truck tires, and trying to cross the busy street that is filled with honking taxis, horses, “Car Rapides,” stray dogs, and busses.

Once I get to school at the West African Research Center (WARC), I am greeted by a great staff of professors and my friends sipping Nescafé and waiting for the next class to start. Currently, I am studying Senegalese culture, Development Theory in Africa, French, Wolof, and my internship track, which is education. The unique aspect of my study abroad program is the ability to work with Non-Governmental Organizations (NGO) that are based all over Senegal. At the end of March, I will be starting my internship with the NGO called Femme Enfant Environment (F.E.E), which promotes education for women and children throughout the community. They are based in Fatick, which is 150 km east of Dakar and in the middle of the desert. There, I will be mentoring young girls to stay in school, promoting girls education in the village, and possibly teaching English after school.

Before I arrived in Senegal, I had no idea what to expect. I had never been to a developing country before nor placed into such a unique situation like this. There are great disparities between construction and nature, and poverty and growing prosperity. In a country that is under construction everywhere you turn, there are also sights and sounds of beauty. The bright bananas, pineapples, and oranges in the fruit stands bring life to the sandy construction zones that I have to walk through. Delicate pink flowers crawl up the walls and grow along the barbed wire fencing that guards some of the houses. There is the rich harmonic Senegalese music that hits my soul and is heard on every corner throughout the entire day, which erases some of my anxiety and makes me want to dance! Whether it is the “call to prayer” echoing from the mosque, the children on the corner singing their school songs, or Senegalese hip-hop, there is always a constant energetic rhythm that flows through the entire community.

Never have I seen so many genuine smiling faces and met new neighbors who welcome me into their homes. There are many adventures that I have yet to experience and new friends to meet here in Dakar. I will try to share many of those moments and also share with you the true beauty and love from Africa that I am currently experiencing.