Sparkling Starters & Jesse Johnson from Waterfront

Welcome back to Wine:30, season two! We hope you all “wintered” well, and would like to thank the many folks that took the time during our hiatus to let us know how much you enjoyed last year’s columns. Last season, our primary focus was on providing some basic wine knowledge along with some great selections available throughout Door County’s shops and restaurants. Based on the feedback we received, we’ve decided to change the format of Wine:30 a bit, with a greater emphasis on food and wine pairings.

To that end, we are planning to enlist the help of some of Door County’s finest chefs and restaurateurs who will be giving their opinions on the best matches for our featured wine. With that said, we appropriately debut this season with everyone’s favorite starter, sparkling wine.

The history of sparkling wine dates back to the 1600s, and began with French wine called simply Vin gris. When shipped in bulk, this wine would often undergo an unplanned secondary fermentation. When bottled, the wine would retain some of that effervescence, a flaw that became an almost instant hit when it landed on the shores of England.

As a result, winemakers throughout Europe began pursuing methods to deliberately create their own versions of sparkling wines. Most notably, the two French Monks named Dom Perignon and Frere Jean Oudart are credited with many innovations and production methods that are still used today. While their efforts in the Abbeys of the Champagne Region of France have made the word Champagne synonymous with the best examples of Sparkling Wines, other European wine regions produce their own versions as well, including:

• Cava, bubbly wine from Spain

• Cremant, sparkling wine from other areas of France outside Champagne

• Sekt, sparkling wine from Germany

• Spumante, Prosecco and Frizante, bubbly wine from Italy.

This week, we’d like to introduce you to one of our favorite and best value wines, Cristalino. This Spanish Cava is made in the traditional method, (with second fermentation occurring in the bottle), exhibiting all the best qualities of a light and easy-drinking sparkler. We asked Jesse Johnson, chef at the Waterfront, to taste the Cristalino and share his impressions with us. Notes from the tasting and Jesse’s pairing recommendations from Waterfront’s current menu follow.

Cristalino Brut Cava NV

“This Cava is quite similar to the popular Cava Freixenet Brut Cordon Negro on our wine list. It has crisp, lemony acidity that cleanses the palate and pairs well with many richer dishes including soft cheeses, seafood and creamy pastas. For first course pairings, I’d select our Cauliflower Cream Soup with smoked ancho romesco, cured ham hock, and chive. For entrée selections, Truffled Pappardelle with truffle and marinated mushroom pappardelle pasta served with Wisconsin sarvecchio cheese fondue would be the perfect match. Also, because of its relatively low-alcohol content, (under 12 percent ABV), I wouldn’t hesitate to pair this with some spicier dishes, as well.” ~ Chef Jesse Johnson, Waterfront, Sister Bay

Appearance: Golden straw color with a green hue and fine bubbles

Aroma: Slight honeycomb and citrus with some toast

Flavors: Notes of creamy lemon and green apple

Finishing Notes: A crisp dry finish that pleasingly carries its fruit characteristics

Where to Buy: Main Street Market, Madison Avenue Wine Shop, Top Shelf, Fish Creek Market, Brother’s Too (Washington Island), Econo Foods, Pick-n-Save

Where to Try: The Mission Grille, T. Ashwell’s, Bluefront Cafe, Summertime, The White Gull Inn, The Inn at Kristofers, Restaurant Saveur, Fiddler’s Green (Washington Island), Whistling Swan

Information about “Where to Try” and “Where to Buy” these selected wines was provided by the local wine purveyors and vendors. If you happen to also serve or sell these wines, email [email protected].

WINE:30 is written by Karl Bradley and Jody Wuollett. Karl is the general manager and self-proclaimed “sous” sommelier for the Mission Grille. Former restaurant executive and Door County native Jody is happily under-employed as a Mission Grille food server and a member of the local band Northbound.