The Trumpeter Swans of Seney

There are few wildlife viewing preserves in the Midwest, other than the Horicon State and National Wildlife Refuge, that can match the Seney National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) for rather easily observing and getting remarkably close to wild birds and mammals. Here is a “rags to riches” story that could very well serve as a model for inspiring other regions of the U.S. to try to duplicate.

A pair of Trumpeter Swans glides in shallow water close to the seven-mile Wildlife Drive in the Seney National Wildlife Refuge.

Its location is ideally well away from large population centers and it’s very easy to find. Take Hwy. 2 north and then east from Escanaba, Mich., to Hwy. M77. Head north on M77 to the little village of Germfask. The entrance to Seney NWR is two miles north of town.

Much of the upper peninsula of Michigan, along with large portions of Wisconsin and Minnesota, was virtually stripped of its vast pine forests by the greedy lumber barons between 1870 and 1895. Bear in mind that this was pioneer country at the time and work was very hard to come by. The woods were virtually clear-cut by men who were glad to find a paying job, and fires were often deliberately started later to prepare the land for farming.

Speculators sold this burned-over land, on which the fires had destroyed most of the humus, to unsuspecting early farmers. Naturally they failed in their venture while being robbed blind by the unscrupulous “money changers.” Gradually this land reverted to the State of Michigan for taxes, and then it lay idle for about 40 years.

It was in 1935 that Michigan recommended to the federal government that this land be turned into a national wildlife refuge. Therein lays the “rags to riches” story. Today this splendid refuge of 153 square miles contains more than 7,000 acres of open water in 21 ponds interspersed with pine and hardwood forests, meadows, bogs and marshes.

A mother Trumpeter Swan watches closely over her two cygnets.

A dike system helps to carefully regulate the level of water necessary for the creation of good nesting habitat, especially for cranes, Ospreys, Bald Eagles, herons and waterfowl including the Trumpeter Swans.

More than 200 species of birds have been observed there. Included among those that nest are the Black Tern, Osprey, Common Loon, Sandhill Crane, Bald Eagle, Wood Duck, Hooded Merganser, American Bittern, Northern Harrier, Woodcock, Ruffed Grouse, Yellow Rail and Trumpeter Swan.

The seven-mile, self-guided auto tour is a pure delight in that it takes you through some of the choicest areas of the refuge. A fork in the road takes you to the right onto a longer route to public fishing areas as well as to some excellent sites for viewing not only birds but also wild mammals. Mink, Muskrat, Fisher (which we saw), Coyote, Bobcat, White-tailed Deer, Black Bear, Weasel and even an occasional Timber Wolf and Moose have been observed.

For the adventurous hiker and biker, there are 80 miles of gravel roads not open to motorized traffic. These remote routes often prove to be ideal for experiencing the unexpected highlight. A family of Trumpeter Swans, the two adults and their two cygnets, foraging for their submerged aquatic-plant breakfast at 7 am in a shallow inlet within 50 feet of where we stood, provided us with one of the thrills of our visit.

Seney NWR and the State of Wisconsin are among the several northern locations in the country where the reintroduction of the endangered Trumpeter Swans has proved to be successful.

Presently Seney is home to about 200 Trumpeter Swans. Twenty-four Trumpeter Swans were released in Burnett County, Wis., in 1989, the goal of the DNR was to have at least 20 breeding pairs in the state by the year 2000. Thanks to a well-designed program and determined work and management, the goal was achieved.

Only 73 of these magnificent white birds, weighing up to 30 pounds and having a wingspan between 8 and 10 feet, were left in the continental U.S. in 1935. Rigidly enforced protective measures helped bring the number to approximately 9,800 in the Central, Mississippi and Atlantic Flyways. Today their population is slowly but steadily climbing, this in light of the fearful predictions that this heaviest of all flying waterfowl on our continent would soon be joining the Dodo Bird, Great Auk and Passenger Pigeon in their extinction.

The very similar Tundra Swans, slightly smaller in comparison to the Trumpeter Swans, are common spring and fall migrants through northeastern Wisconsin and conceivably can be confused with their larger and rarer “cousins.” If you are exceptionally lucky enough to hear the low, far-reaching sonorous, “French-horn like” call of the Trumpeter Swan, there will be no mistaking it for the Tundra Swan with its much higher “hooting,” somewhat like hearing a pack of barking dogs in the distance. Charlotte and I were so fortunate to hear the awesome trumpeting of the Trumpeter Swans on a visit in late July to the Seney NWR.

Here is one of the large pools with patches of White Water Lilies.

The Trumpeter Swan lacks the yellow patch on its black beak, in front of the eye, that many, but not all, of the Tundra Swans have. Preferably with the use of a spotting scope, you will see that the black facial skin that tapers to a rather broad point at the eye of the Trumpeter dips down in a “V” on its forehead. You will also notice that the adult’s forehead slopes quite evenly to its straight bill. The black facial skin on the Tundra Swan also tapers to a point in front of the eye but cuts straight across the forehead.

One memorable trip to the Seney NWR in late July and early August several years ago found us literally stuffing ourselves with the scrumptious sweet Serviceberries picked from the dozens of Allegheny Serviceberry trees, appearing considerably like large shrubs, growing along the mile-long nature trail near the fine visitor center. This excellent center is open from May 15 to Oct. 15, a “must-see” on your trip to this choice wildlife area.

However, nothing could have been sweeter than watching the family of Trumpeter Swans having their breakfast at dawn, a most perfect product of this spectacular “rags to riches” achievement.