It’s a Holiday In…North Korea?!

Nate Jacobs traveled to North Korea in November, arriving via the Sunan Airport in Pyongyang.

The very idea of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), otherwise known as North Korea, usually brings to mind former beloved President Georgie W. Bush’s tag “Axis of Evil,” and little else. The more educated would think of nuclear weapons, propaganda, communism, and a harsh climate. But who in their right mind would even consider it as a tourist destination?

Eleven years ago, when I was an exchange student in France, I read an article in Newsweek about the DPRK. While the focus was generally how shocking and “evil” the country was, I was completely intrigued. I devoured every book, every article, and every webpage I could about the “Hermit Kingdom” (as it is sometimes referred). But most of all, I wanted to go there. I wanted to experience the DPRK.

I’m certainly not a “vacation” traveler. After that year in France, I opted to trade it for several long journeys into Russia. Other trips to Brazil, Mexico and Argentina, have led me to seek out rapping peasants, donkey rides, nearly suicidal drinking bouts with the locals, and mysterious street foods, rather than beaches and night clubs. Despite these trips being a lot of fun, they are certainly not very relaxing. I usually have to learn a new language (at least a bit), get visas (you wouldn’t believe how enigmatic Russian bureaucracy can be), and be much more alert for dangers and annoyances than in Door County.

People normally don’t agree with my vacation choices. Usually I’m asked why I’m not visiting a “nice place,” but I’m always fed a stream of stereotypes that sometimes border on the ridiculous. In the case of Russia, I was warned about bears in the streets on more than a few occasions. North Korea drew some interesting commentary, most of it bordering on absurd, vaguely formed opinions that the Koreans would decapitate, detain, degrade, and despise me for no other reason than for being an American. There was even someone who insisted that no one could bring a camera legally into the DPRK. Ooh, so scary…

Nate Jacobs stands before the Worker’s Party Monument in Pyongyang, North Korea.

North Korea sees about 3,000 Western visitors a year, including a very small diplomatic community. The majority of these tourists come from Europe, but Americans have been allowed to visit the country at any time of the year after 2008 (previously, there were restrictions on when we could visit). Finally, I saw that my dream to visit the DPRK could finally come true. Sadly, the only option for visiting was, and is, going on a pre-arranged tour.

Tour groups are not appealing to me. The idea of a gaggle of lost mouth-breathing tourists dressed in gaudy identical T-shirts is not my idea of getting close to the natives. But in going to the DPRK, there are really no other options. Luckily, I stumbled upon Koryo Tours, a Beijing based operation run by a couple of Brits. In July, I filled out an application, sent a passport picture and the money for an all inclusive five-day winter wonderland adventure. The Koryo staff simply replied “see you in Beijing a day before the tour.” It seemed so simple and casual that I feared, incorrectly, that something was amiss.

Fast-forward several months to November. I arrived in China, enjoyed that country for about two weeks before showing up at the pre-tour briefing. I surveyed my fellow travelers, taken aback by the fact that there seemed to be no real common demographic: a former diplomat from England, a 19-year-old college student from Boston, a geology professor from New Zealand, a carpenter from Australia, and two cooks from Wilson’s Ice Cream – my co-worker Ben and myself. Indeed, this wasn’t going to be any ordinary tour, or tour group for that matter.

The Worker’s Party Monument.

Visiting the DPRK is no ordinary affair, our group leader, Simon, informed us. There are definitely rules and parameters that must be followed. You travel with your group at all times, accompanied by at least two North Korean guides. You do not wander off. Ask before taking pictures. Talking about their Leaders, both Dear and Great, is a business best done carefully.

Luckily, we had a few things to be thankful for. Our group had been upgraded to stay in the luxurious, 47-story Yanggakdo Hotel, which features two revolving restaurants and its very own microbrewery. Knowing that we would have a steady supply of fresh beer eased any tension we had been feeling.

The next day, we boarded Air Koryo (the DPRK’s airline) from Beijing to the capital of Pyongyang. Right when we stepped on the plane, it was clear that we had entered North Korean territory. The flight attendants were immaculately groomed, easily the most attractive stewardess I have ever seen, and like each Korean passenger, had the pre-requisite Kim Il Sung badge, that most North Koreans wear. The video safety demonstration began by telling us that Air Koryo upholds the Juche Socialist principles set up by the Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il. I’m normally scared to fly, but knowing that set my heart at ease.

When we arrived at Sunan Airport I looked up and saw red letters spelling out Pyongyang in English and Korean, with an enormous portrait of the Great Leader, sandwiched between them.

Nate Jacobs with guide Mrs. Lee in the Pyongyang Metro.

“We’re here,” Ben smirked, and high-fived me. Yes, we certainly weren’t in Door County anymore. Or even China.

Despite their military uniforms, the customs officials weren’t stand-offish or rude. When one female officer asked me where I was from, I worried she would dislike me for being American. But no, she just said, “ah, American,” and dispassionately waved me through. We met our main guide, Mrs. Lee, a pint-sized woman with seemingly infinite stores of energy. As it was already late, we were taken to one sight, the Worker’s Party Monument, treated to a delicious meal of traditional Korean hot pot, before checking into our hotel for the night.

It felt like a field trip for adults. Remember when you were herded this way and that by your schoolteacher? You ate common, pre-arranged meals? Roll call was taken on the bus upon leaving each attraction? Well, there was already plenty of that, and destined to be more. But we got beer and some rice vodka with our meals, and there was no “lights out” when we got back to the Yanggakdo Hotel. Only a few people went straight to bed, even though we had been on our feet all day. The vast majority, guides included, hung out in bar, living after midnight.