Primitivo

In the 1990s, the Primitivo varietal was proven to be DNA connected to the Zinfandel grape in California. Both are known to be the ancestors of the ancient Croatian varietal known as Crljenak Kastelanski. Though it is not known how the clone was brought to Italy, it is predominately found in the southern “heel” area of Italy known as Puglia – more specifically, the Salento region of this area.
The name Primitivo (in Latin: first to ripen) was given by 18th century Benedictine monks in Gioia del Colla for its tendency to ripen earlier than other varietals in the vineyards. The varietal was eventually widely planted across California, at one point being the most heavily planted grape in the state.
Initially, Primitivo was used as a blending grape for balance in wines from Amarone and Salento because of its high sugar levels that create higher alcohol in the finished wine. More recently, however, it has been becoming more popular by wine makers who have cut the alcohol back a bit and made a more balanced wine. This, along with the more recent connection to the Zinfandel grape has given the Primitivo varietal some momentum in the wine world.
The particular area we focused on for our tasting was in the Salento region in an area known as Manduria. In the vineyards here, the soils are red, iron-rich clays with large calcareous rocks, shells and coral from ancient sea beds. The wines here are big, bold and rich, with high alcohol levels and high tannins as well.
The winemaker at Layer Cake has chosen to cut back the alcohol to just below the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) required minimum of 14 percent to 13.5 percent for a more balanced outcome. With not making the requirements of the DOC, they have to label the wine as Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) but have produced a wonderful glass of wine. (Note: The DOC is an area more specific with more specified varietals allowed than the IGT).

Layer Cake Primitivo Puglia Italy 2009 (a.k.a. zinfandel)
Appearance: inky purple color
Aroma: rich black cherry and dark plum aromas with a touch of coffee
Flavors: bold and structured with dark fruit flavors, espresso, pepper notes, spice, truffles and a touch of chocolate
Finishing Notes: full-bodied and rich, deep dark flavors make this a big wine yet balanced
Perfect Pairing: Would pair nicely with a roasted rack of lamb with black currant glaze

WINE:30 is written by Karl Bradley and Jody Wuollett, who are both longtime residents of Door County. Jody is the owner operator of Chop Restaurant in the Sister Bay Country Walk Shops and Karl is the General Manager and Executive Chef of the Mission Grille in Sister Bay. They have both been awarded the first level of certification from the Court of the Master Sommeliers.