Strengthening Ties to Local Food Markets

Buying local has become en vogue as consumers try to incorporate ethical imperatives into their purchasing habits, and studies show that travelers increasingly crave the flavor of the destinations they choose to visit.

But is “local” selling? And is Door County’s food production infrastructure up to the task of providing the product to fulfill travelers’ desires? A study conducted by the University of Wisconsin-Madison with help from the UW-Extension in Door County aimed to find answers to these and other questions concerning the local marketplace.

Strawberries are a staple of Wisconsin farm markets come July.

What it discovered is a growing market, but one only scratching the surface of its possibilities. “Door County’s local food network is relatively well-developed and continues to grow,” the study, “Retailer Perspectives on Local Food Networks,” concluded, but as Dean Volenberg of the UW-Extension points out, it has yet to approach its peak.

“There is a lot of room for growth for restaurants and retailers to spend more locally,” he said. “It helps the producer and community, so we need to bring the pieces together.”

The study summarizes data gathered by surveys mailed to 83 establishments chosen for their participation in the Door County Visitor Bureau’s A Kingdom So Delicious promotion. The survey posed questions about purchasing practices, motivations, and the changes businesses have experienced as a result of purchasing local foods. Thirty businesses (36 percent) responded to the survey, and while the sample wasn’t huge, Volenberg said it is representative enough of the county to provide useful data.

Farmers markets are the most recognized purveyors of Door County produce.

“The biggest thing is we found out what producers need to do,” Volenberg said. “They need to work on packaging and picking out the right products to grow, and there are supply issues that need to be addressed.”

The survey revealed that local products are competitive with non-local products in terms of price, blemishes, consistency of shape, and shelf life, but are found lacking in packaging, handling, and delivery consistency by buyers. These failings are the biggest barriers to increasing the amount of food sourced locally, according to the survey.

Interestingly, respondents indicated that a commitment to community is on par with business concerns as an inspiration for sourcing locally. Only 24 percent of businesses indicated that the transition to using more local products had been good for sales, while a commitment to supporting local producers was the key motivator for 21 percent of respondents.

The classic Door County cherry pie always finds a buyer.

“A lot do it for the sense of community,” Volenberg said. “They want to support their neighbor.” Others attest to the quality of local produce.

Don Jervis and his wife Krista Olson have owned the Town Hall Bakery in Jacksonport for 18 years. Jervis makes the rounds of the peninsula’s farm markets each week, primarily to hunt for fresh vegetables, taking all he can carry back to his kitchen.

“I love to support local producers,” Jervis said. “But really it’s just better stuff. It’s never customer requests – it’s our standards. We want to find the best available stuff.”

Volenberg said there’s a perception that sourcing locally costs more, but the survey showed the difference is only marginal.

“It’s roughly the same price, maybe a hair more,” Jervis said. “But it can be tough to find the time to do it.”

Indeed, buying locally has hidden costs for retailers and restaurateurs. It saves time and headaches when an owner or kitchen manager can make just a couple of phone calls to order all the supplies, or even do it online.

“It is tricky to do the legwork,” Jervis explained. “Some will deliver, some won’t. You just have to get all the producers’ phone numbers, try to call ahead, and they can usually come through.”

But many kitchen managers can’t find the time to do it.

Mary Pat Carlson owns the Wildwood Market outside Sister Bay and is the founder and director of the Algoma Farm Market Kitchen, a facility shared by 70 area processors. She said the local food network could improve dramatically with a little more organization and communication to ensure the consistency and quality restaurants are looking for while making it easier for them to use local markets.

“We need to try to develop a stronger network, to come up with better ways to market and distribute by working collectively and cooperatively,” she said.

Volenberg agreed.

“Buyers are very concerned about conveniences,” he said.

The survey identified the “lack of a centralized and organized means to collect and distribute local food to area food retail establishments” as a major hurdle.

Volenberg and Carlson said there are ideas on the table to make it easier for businesses to buy local, such as the creation of a central warehouse and pick-up and delivery route to get products to market under a cooperative-style umbrella.

While buying locally may cost slightly more than through traditional purveyors and require additional work for the buyer, it also comes with additional benefits. It “comes bundled with additional skills, business relationships, and economic opportunities,” according to the study.

When restaurants and retailers get their products from their neighbors, they develop a relationship with the grower and tend to learn more about what goes into the product. This makes for better stories and better service.

“This offers opportunities for agri-tourism and culinary tourism,” Volenberg explained. “Part of marketing is telling a story behind the product. That’s how you can reach the consumer.”

The survey concluded, “Further relationship building between Door County’s agriculture industry and tourist industry is needed to expand and fortify Door County’s promising local food network.”

Carlson said the challenge is why it’s an exciting time to be involved in the local food network.

“We’re behind in some areas, but we’re catching up fast.”