The First “Green” Wine

Wisconsin winemaker Steve Johnson does not take offense at being called a mad scientist. In fact, he considers it a compliment. After all, Johnson just created two new wines that are both firsts for the U.S. wine market – the first wine, called Vin du Nord, that ferments red and white grapes together so that juice left in the skins is not wasted, and Wisconsin’s first grape-grown sparkling wine dubbed Bubbler in an insider nod to the Wisconsin colloquialism for water fountain. Both are available online at Parallel44.com, at the winery in Kewaunee near Green Bay, and at their second location, Door 44 Winery in Sturgeon Bay.

Johnson refers to Vin du Nord, which literally translates to Wine of the North, as a “green” wine in that it makes use of the juice left in the skins after crushing and pressing. “It seemed a shame to waste that juice given the high demand for Wisconsin-grown wine,” said Johnson. So he fermented red and white together, rather than blending after, to create a unique flavor expression. As Johnson tells it, it was a scientifically rigorous process that included doing the chemistry on eight different lots. All eight worked.

“It looks like a red and has the nuanced complexity of a red, yet has the fruit-forward expression of a white,” said Johnson. “It’s not intimidating for those who like white wines and will still appeal to red wine drinkers.”

Johnson also noted that, if this strikes a chord with wine drinkers, it could open up a whole new category for winemakers.

Bubbler is a blend of three different grapes and is a bit drier than some sparkling wines. Johnson was inclined to invent this because the climate and varietals in northern Wisconsin lend themselves to crisper sparkling wines. “My inclination was that the cooler summers here produce the best expression of grapes in sparkling wines and that was confirmed for me by a winegrower from the Champagne region of France,” explained Johnson.

Bubbler was created to enjoy year round, not just for holidays and special occasions.

Two other new wines join the winery’s growing wine list. Drink Pink, the “truest of rosé wines” according to Johnson and already very popular, is a blend of Frontenac and Foch grapes, gently pressed and capturing a bright fruit aspect with aromatic expressions of strawberries, red raspberries and pink grapefruit. “The aromatics were so true and vibrant it almost didn’t seem real at first,” said Johnson. Drink Pink is chilled as a classic rosé in a semi-sweet style.

Glacier Fumé is a semi-sweet white wine offering a crisp, refreshing balance of honey aromatics and tropical fruit flavors with a hint of minerality.

All four new wines are available at Parallel 44’s original location in Kewaunee, N2185 Sleepy Hollow Road, and online at Parallel44.com. Bubbler is available at their Door 44 Winery which opened last summer in Sturgeon Bay at 4020 State Highway 42/57.

Parallel 44 kicks off its Summer Concert Series at the Kewaunee location on June 21, with concerts on select Saturdays in June, July and August from 4 to 6 pm. Guests can enjoy the view of the 10-acre vineyard while listening to jazz, soul, folk, pop or rock on any given Saturday. Wine sampling is $6 and food is available for purchase. Door 44’s version is called Music on the Patio and is staged on select Fridays in July and August. For complete schedules, visit Parallel44.com and click on the Events link.